 |
|
Pictorial Korea
|
 |
Solbim
Luxury of Expectations
Due
to the solar and lunar New Year's holidays, January and
February are filled with the excitement and energy that
comes with celebrating special occasions. It is a time to
get out the hanbok (traditional Korean costume) you have
tucked away in your closet and to prepare your children's
solbim, new clothes for New Year's.
For children, especially,
dressing up in solbim symbolizes the start of a fun-filled
day. Old men wearing a roomy vest called chokki over their
hanbok. Young fathers wearing a hanbok with an outer jacket
called magoja. Young mothers wearing a traditional overcoat
over their hanbok and an ayam, fur cap. Children clad in
brightly colored hanbok with striped sleeves and colorful
hats or hair ribbons. Seeing them on the streets or around
the neighborhood is enough to get you in a holiday mood.
Although Western clothes have long been the fashion choice
of Koreans, the hanbok still enchants us with its own charm
based on its exquisite needlework and attention to detail.
The silk shops
in the Chongno area, where has been the center of silk trading
for as long as anyone can remember, have displays of bright,
luxurious fabrics that make you linger at their windows
imagining what kind of clothes they could be made into.
Just as selecting the right foundation is a key to creating
great installation art, choosing the right fabric is an
important factor in making lovely hanbok. And for fabrics
one can do no better than going to Chongno where some silk
shops have been in the business for more than three generations.
At one shop, an elderly sales manager who comes from a family
of three generations of sales managers, greets customers,
many of whom have been shopping there for decades.
The delicate and fine
details of a well-made hanbok are the trademark of the designer
boutiques that set the trends in hanbok fashions. Sometimes
an entire family visits these boutiques to have solbim made.
The quality of the boutiques is top of the line, be it tailoring
or alterations, and they offer a variety of styles ranging
from highly elegant to simple.
Those who have worn hanbok know the classic
elegance that comes from wearing silk undergarments, poson
(padded cotton socks with upturned toes and formed ankles)
and traditional silk or leather shoes--all part of the right
look for hanbok lovers. Because they are basically undergarments,
these luxuries are not readily visible to observers. However,
it is only those who take the effort to dress in the correct
way, that is, wearing those undergarments, socks and shoes,
that can be rightly called the leaders of hanbok fashion.
Hanbok fashions are created
through studies of what constitutes elegance and is expressed
through a combination of color, cut and tailoring. Some
well-known hanbok designers are Jung Jung-wan, Lee Lee-ja,
an expert in hanbok fashion, Heo Young, and Lee Jung-ryone
who is known for her skill in quilting. They all agree that
when it comes to solbim it is important to remember to use
fabrics appropriate to the season such as wool and silk.
They say that it is no longer fashionable to wear a thick
silk gauze lining in winter.
The hint of white poson whose nose is slightly visible
under a hanbok skirt is a very attractive sight. The underskirt
that becomes slightly visible when the skirt is wrapped
tightly around the body can be regarded as a fashion statement.
For ceremonial hanbok, a slightly fluffed-up underskirt
is recommended. But New Year's hanbok should be dressy and
at the same time practical. A woman should be able to bind
her skirt so that she can move freely to prepare and serve
food and a slight brush with food will not harm the fabric.
Children's solbim should
include a hanbok as well as a colorful outer robe, and a
long, sleeveless vest as well as traditional caps and hair
ornaments. If you visit a museum with displays on traditional
garments, you can see many decorative accessories for boys
and girls including colorful hair ornaments and ribbons,
caps and hats. The stripes of childrens striped sleeves
should not be too thick. Perhaps you're thinking, Why prepare
solbim for children? Those who have experienced the joy
and excitement that comes from wearing solbim view hanbok
differently when they grow up and thus continue the tradition
of wearing this beautiful costume for special occasions.
|