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Hanbok is apparel of
the Caftan type-a style of attire which is primarily found
in Asia. During the Go Joseon era, Dan-gun popularized shaving
of the head and the wearing of hats.
During the Three Kingdoms
period, which began with the founding of Goguryeo, hanbok
consisted of a two-piece "unisex" outfit. The upper garments
of this period opened in front and came down below the waist.
They were held shut with a belt. The lower garments were
also tied off above the feet. Notably, the opening flap
of the upper garments seems to have been placed on a leftward
diagonal from the upper right-in contrast with the left
to right flaps on the jeogori worn today. This change
in the direction of the opening flap occurred after the
mid-Goryeo period. Among Western apparel, a right-side flap
is used for male attire, while a left-side flap is used
for female attire. Thus, the unisex style popular in the
modern period can be said to have originated in East Asia,
whereas the differentiation between male and female attire
is thought to have originated in the West. Ancient Koreans
produced upper and lower garments which were beautiful yet
pracitically suited to the active lifestyle of nomadic hunters.
During the Silla period, Korean
society diversified while contacts with neighboring countries
increased. At this time, Koreans began to introduce the
international fashions of China's Tang Dynasty. Examples
include sleeveless shirts for women, long scarves, decorative
hairpins, male headdress and coats with round lapels. Elaborate
silk clothing and ornaments were other elements of the refined
clothing fashions of the period.
During
the Goryeo period, the long upper garments of the previous
period gave way to waist-length attire. As a result, waist
belts were replaced by coat tie-strings. As one of the unique
features of Korean clothing, the coat string was initially
a short, thin cord but eventually developed into the style
seen today, i.e., a long, dangling piece of cloth that hangs
down below the knees. Around this time, Tang Dynasty's fashions
became less influential. As Korean society turned to the
values of frugality and simplicity, the calm, tranquil beauty
of agriculture life found expression in the period's famous
blue celadon and white clothing. Korean clothing underwent
further refinement as cotton was introduced into Korea from
Yuan China. In addition, clothing regulations were introduced
from abroad and a system of official uniforms was established
for the palace.
The beginning of the
Joseon period saw the development of a Confucian society.
At this time, the use of cotton became wide-spread. In addition,
the period saw the development of a unique script, known
as Han-geul, and the publication of numerous scholarly
compilations. At the same time, there were diverse developments
in the system of ritual attire. Confucianism, as the central
ideology and faith of East Asia, was actively pursued at
this time, along with its system of ritual dress. Ritual
clothing represented the visible manifestation of intangible
Confucian virtues such as benevolence, propriety, wisdom
and trust. Since clothing served as a medium for the visible
expression of a rite, it was deemed a very significant form
of expression. Hence, Joseon apparel, in addition to its
role in delineating social status, represented a strict
conformity to Confucian codes of ritual attire. In particular,
a standardized system of clothing for the various rites
of passages was established in accordance with numerous
ritual manuals. Special attire was worn for the rites of
manhood, marriage, mourning and memorial services. Even
today, these clothes can be seen at weddings and funerals,
and in particularly conservative areas, the special clothing
for memorial services is still worn. The traditional dress
of Confucian scholars can be seen in the paintings of the
famous Joseon folk painter, Sin Yun-bok. In these paintings,
the outer robes are long, yet never touch the ground. Inside
the robes, multiple layers of undergarments can be seen.
With wide sleeves hanging down, the grave-looking scholar
sports a broad-rimmed, horse-hair hat.
The late-Joseon period
saw great social changes as the common people came to resent
the feudalistic system. The period was also marked by significant
changes in values and aesthetics. At this time, female entertainers
took the lead in the new developments in women's attire.
Men's fashions, on the other hand, were primarily influenced
by members of overseas missions, political reformers, overseas
students and missionaries. Folk art depictions of women
during this era show them wearing white belts, snug jeogori
that show the contour of the breast, and numerous undergarments
exaggerating the volume of the dress. The erotic beauty
of the garments has little precedent in traditional Confucian
culture.
The opening of Korea to the
West intensified the pace of change in apparel. Most notably,
clothing during this period became much simpler. During
the coup d'etat of 1884 and the Gabo Reform (1894),
clothing specifications for various ceremonies were combined
to form a single ritual attire. The awkward, wide sleeves
became narrower and male top-knots were cut off. Among woman's
attire, undergarments as well as concealing vestments such
as the sseugaechima (shawl), jang-ot (hood)
and neoul (veil) gave way to a more practical, short
coat.
The disappearance of
traditional attire during the process of modernization has
been explained in relationship to economic development.
Nations which have industrialized and developed economically
have given up their traditional clothing, as part of their
everday dress, at a more rapid rate than economically backward
nations. In Korea, the hanbok began to disappear as everyday
dress in the 1960s and came to be used only during rituals.
As for traditional ritual attire, only marriage and mourning
clothing have survived. Traditional hanbok are now only
seen on special traditional events such as folk festivals,
shamanic gut, historical dramas or reenactments of
palace rituals.
In short, the hanbok
has undergone many changes but has generally consisted of
elements still evident in hanbok today, i.e. pants,
outer coat, skirt, and soon. Among the hanbok's different
forms, ritual clothing has traditionally taken precedence.
During its development, the hanbok acquired some
elements from neighboring nations, while changing to suit
the particular needs of the times.
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